BIKEPACKING ÖLAND
Earlier this year, David and I decided to cycle on Gotland. However, since we live in different places and the ferry schedules between Oskarshamn and Nynäshamn didn’t align well, we opted to cycle on Öland instead. I had seen very little of Öland myself, and with the change, we had the opportunity to explore the entire island rather than just half of Gotland. In the end, it turned out to be a fantastic decision!
It all started with a torn achilles tendon in December 2023. Needing to take a break from running, I got an exercise bike to stay active during the winter. However, I quickly grew bored of it and decided to take my mountain bike out on the winter roads instead. Before I knew it, I actually started enjoying cycling, and that’s when the idea of cycling on Gotland first took root.
I called David, an avid road cyclist, and he was quick to jump on board. Over the next few months, I got myself a bike, along with various bags and accessories for our bikes, among other things.
DAY 1
We kicked off our journey from a parking lot in Färjestaden on Sweden's National Day. The sun was shining, but strong southerly winds were waiting for us. Cycling in such strong winds was something I hadn't really prepared for. We headed south, passing through Färjestaden and the Vickleby beech forest, and soon found ourselves cycling along the coast toward Mörbylånga. The area was filled with birdwatchers, so we kept a low profile and quietly slipped by.
A bit south of Mörbylånga, we turned inland to visit Gettlinge gravfält (the Gettlinge burial site), which is believed to date back to the Late Iron Age. Quite impressive!
Further south, we passed Degerhamn with the abandoned old cement factory, then made our way to Grönhögen. It was time to pick up dinner for the evening, as it was the last real grocery store before we set up camp for the night. With limited packing space, we had to get creative. ;)
The final stretch toward Långe Jan was brutal. We were battling a headwind of 10 m/s, with even stronger gusts, and it became clear that David had a lot more power in his legs. David told me he pushes himself to the limit every day cycling to and from work, while I was struggling to keep up with his pace. Our fitness levels were probably similar, but my legs just hit a wall. We stopped for a well-deserved sjömansbiff (sailor's stew) at Restaurant Fågel Blå before continuing on our way.
After that, we continued north along the eastern side, and that’s when the reward came—tailwinds all the way up to Långe Erik! We passed several small villages, like Näsby, Enetri, and Össby, before turning east to check out Eketorp Fortress. They were about to close just as we arrived, so we only had a quick look, but it was still great to see. The fortress originally dates back to the 3rd century, but it’s been reconstructed to give a glimpse into how life was back then.
We kept cycling along the Ölandsleden, now on the lookout for a good spot to set up camp for the night. We passed through Mellstaby and Seby, originally planning to make our way to Segerstad Lighthouse. We had noticed a small wooded area there where David could hang his new hammock. Unfortunately, we missed the turn, and in the end, we found ourselves by the water just below Hulterstad. It couldn’t have worked out better, though, as it was absolutely beautiful!
In the middle of a cow pasture, I set up my tent while David hung his hammock in a small wooded area. A passerby warned us that the cows were quite curious and might get close, but the meadow was so beautiful that I decided to take the risk. David, however, was safely tucked away on the other side of the wall.
It was then time for dinner, so we pulled out the camp stove and started cooking our sausages. Alongside them, we had a generous 400 grams of potato salad... each! It might have been a bit too much, at least for me, but after riding 11 (swedish) miles, I needed to refuel with carbs.
We had a lovely evening, and we slept fairly well. David got a bit cold as the hammock didn’t provide much insulation from below, while my tent became pretty warm from the morning sun, so I ended up being way too hot. One lesson learned for next time: open the tent on the shady side for better ventilation. During the night, I could hear the cows stomping around outside my tent, but thankfully, they didn’t get too close. Unfortunately, the water was unpleasant due to all the nutrient pollution, so there was no morning dip. Before packing up, we had breakfast and enjoyed a cup of drip coffee from Johan & Nyström.
DAY 2
We continued north, and our first stop of the day was Naturbutiken in Lilla Brunneby, a paradise for birdwatchers. The store is filled with books, binoculars, birdhouses, and much more. We enjoyed a coffee there while taking some time to plan our route north.
After that, we continued north, passing through places like Gårdby and Dörby. We then turned west, taking some backroads up to Himmelsberga farm, where we stopped for lunch. Of course, I had to try “kroppkakor”. They were surprisingly tasty—definitely much better than I remember from school, about 35 years ago! ;)
The original plan was to cycle around Öland counterclockwise, but with the wind being so strong, we decided to adjust our route to a figure-eight pattern instead. This way, we could take advantage of the southwesterly winds on the northwest side and then cycle in more sheltered conditions on the eastern side as we headed south again. We also realized that cycling 11 miles from Byxelkrok to Färjestaden into strong headwinds on the final day would be tough, so we opted to ride all the way up to Byxelkrok that day. This gave us two days to cycle southward again. We rode up to Bredsätra, then turned west, crossing vast fields of poppies before finally reaching Äleklinta, where the beautiful coastal road began on the western side.
Once we arrived in Byxelkrok, we grabbed takeout pizza at the harbor and relaxed while watching the sunset from David's beautiful summer cottage. It was also David’s birthday, so we treated ourselves to a bottle of wine and a shot to celebrate (we’d brought along a bag-in-box wine for the trip). We wrapped up the day with just under 13 miles, and even though we had some tailwind, our thighs were definitely feeling it.
DAY 3
The next day, we headed north towards Öland’s northern tip and Långe Erik. We passed Neptuni Åkrar with its vast stone heaps and winding roads, but when we reached the lighthouse, it was crowded with cars and tourists. After a quick glance, we decided to move on swiftly.
We then followed Ölandsleden eastward, cycling through beautiful forest trails before stopping at Trollskogen on the island's northeastern tip. This enchanting forest was filled with wind-shaped ancient pines. At first, we thought cycling was prohibited there, but then we spotted a dedicated bike trail running through the area.
Now it was time to head south again, and that meant battling headwinds! But to begin with, we stuck to Ölandsleden, which mostly ran along gravel paths through the forest, so it wasn’t too bad. The winding roads were lovely, though the gravel was often a bit coarse, making the ride a little bumpy. We made a brief stop at Böda Sand for a break, but in the end, we just had a banana each instead of a proper fika.
After that, we cycled a few miles down to Restaurant Kalk in Löttorp. It's a charming burger joint that uses local ingredients, and the burgers were absolutely delicious—just what we needed after a couple of hours in the saddle
Before leaving Löttorp, we stocked up on supplies for the evening and then continued south. It turned into a long ride, partly along Ölandsleden but also on plenty of main roads, and the headwind made it a real challenge. Not the most enjoyable stretch, but sometimes you just have to push through.
After 81 kilometers, we finally reached our destination. Originally, we had planned to cycle all the way to Kårehamn, but we were unsure if we’d find a good spot there. Instead, we decided to head to a peninsula just outside Greda. At the tip of the peninsula, there was a row of old fishing huts, but the area offered no shelter, so we turned back and found a spot in a cow pasture. Fortunately, the cows weren’t there at the moment, as they were grazing in a nearby field.
The rain was looming, so we quickly set up the tent and unpacked some refreshments after a long and demanding ride. Luckily, the rain stopped soon after, allowing us to cook tacos on the camp stove. We kept it simple with chicken mince, salad, and salsa. As the night approached, the rain began to pour, so we decided to both sleep in my tent to stay dry.
DAY 4
The next morning, the sun was shining again, and we both slept surprisingly well despite the rain. The tent held up perfectly, though there was quite a bit of condensation when we woke up. Breakfast was once again porridge, and as we ate, the tent dried out in the sun. All that remained was the 'simple' task of cycling 55 kilometers back to Färjestaden into a strong headwind.
The ride back to Färjestaden wasn’t the most exciting stretch. Dark clouds began to gather on the horizon, so we decided to take a small detour for lunch in Borgholm. Just as we wheeled our bikes into a restaurant, the sky opened up with a downpour. We stuck around for lunch, but the place wasn’t anything special, so when the next shower hit, we headed to a nearby café for a coffee and a break.
After that, it was mostly just grinding along the shoulder of the main road back to Färjestaden. It was wet, with heavy traffic and a relentless headwind. What more could we ask for? ;) Along the way, we managed to avoid yet another downpour by taking shelter in an outlet store by the side of the road.
After 370 kilometers and four days, we were back at the parking lot in Färjestaden, marking the end of our first bikepacking adventure. At least for this time. Not a single flat tire, and all our bags and gear worked flawlessly!
It was an incredible experience, and without a doubt, it won’t be our last cycling adventure.
Photo: Philip Karlberg & David Lokrantz
